It’s been a great debate for years. Is there an actual difference between the two grapes? One is from Italy (Primitivo) and the other is distinctly Californian (Zinfandel), some say the two grapes are one in the same while others do not.
So, which is it?
Here’s what we know: both varietals are clones of the rare indigenous Croatian varietal, Tribidrag also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski (pronounced Tserl-yee-ehnak Kashh-tell-ann-skee). But with a name like that, no wonder it was changed somewhere along the way! The Tribidrag grape, which has been dated back to the 15th century, unfortunately fell victim to grape phylloxera; a disease that almost wiped out a majority of Europe's wine vines in the 19th century. Now in its initial stages of a comeback, Croatian winegrowers are learning the intricacies of this ancient grape known to produce fruit-forward, spicy wines.
While it originated in Croatia, its high yields and love for the warm, temperate climate of the Dalmatia coast, undoubtedly made it a prime grape to grow in nearby Italy. Here is where it got the name "Primitivo" due to the fact that the grapes ripened earlier than other varietals planted. Primitivo wines are characterized as rich and concentrated with good structure. Lighter variations tend to lean towards having floral and fruity aromas with notes of pepper and blackberry on the palate -- quite similar to that of the Tribidrag grape.
After making a name for itself in Italy, it then journeyed to the United States via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria and eventually garnered the name "Zinfandel". The vines were planted on the east coast of the US initially, but made its home in California after the Gold Rush. California Zinfandels are characterized by robust berry fruit flavors with notable hints of anise and pepper...sound familiar?
Now, what's the conclusion? Even some scientists working with the DNA results of Tribidrag, Primitivo and Zinfandel have found difficulty coming to a consensus. But while Primitivo and Zinfandel are very similar genetically, they are in fact 'siblings', if you will, deriving from the Croatian Tribidrag varietal. The wine styles of each can range immensely, and many can be extremely similar, which is why ‘Primitivo’ and ‘Zinfandel’ were considered synonyms for years and many still believe they are just too close in similarity to distinguish. Wineries that produce both Primitivo and Zinfandel will typically fiercely defend the unique characteristics of each varietal.
Want to try it for yourself? Check out some of our recently featured wines to test your palate!
• 2013 Andis Primitivo
• 2013 Brutocao Zinfandel
Originally published in our Gold Wine Club’s monthly newsletter, The Wine Press, featuring wines from Andis Winery.