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Graziano Family winery - Mendocino County


Graziano Launches Newest Addition to Growing Portfolio of Wines

The Graziano Family announces their new Graziano brand showcasing several different Zinfandels and Petite Sirah as well as Italian varietal wines, all grown on select hillside vineyards of the Redwood and Ukiah Valleys. This new line of wines broadens the varietal mix and expands the number of wines produced to over two dozen. The history and strength of Graziano Family wines is decidedly Italian, as you will learn in the story you are about to read.

“It just kind of hit me,” recalls Greg Graziano who in 1982 visited family in Italy where his roots go back hundreds of years. “All of a sudden it made sense that I should be making Italian wines. It’s a big part of my heritage.”

Greg remembers well the stories of his grandfather, Vincenzo, who immigrated to the United States in 1908. Vincenzo left behind famine and depression in Italy in search of a better life, like so many who passed through Ellis Island in that era. His goal was to work his way to California’s Mendocino County where he heard the climate and terrain was much like that of his native land in Piemonte, Italy. Vincenzo worked the Pennsylvania coalmines for several years before finally heading out west. He landed in Sausalito where he worked as a gardener for several more years, saving enough money to allow his fiancée, Angela who was still in Italy, to join him.

In 1918 Vincenzo and Angela’s brother Frank, who immigrated also, bought 100 acres of land near the town of Calpella in Mendocino County. They immediately started planting a vineyard on the property to Italian varietals, Muscato, Barbera and Carignane. In 1920, Prohibition hit the U.S. but many grape growing operations, including Vincenzo and Frank’s, survived the period. They were able to dodge the restrictions by selling to buyers back east who purchased the grapes for “medicinal purposes.”

Vincenzo’s son, Joseph (Greg’s father), literally grew up in the vineyards and dutifully followed the same path of grape growing and winemaking. In 1940, Joseph and his dad founded the Mendocino Grape Growers Coop, creating an important entity among grape growers in the area. Also that year, they purchased 100 more acres two miles down the road at Redwood Valley Ranch.

“I grew up working in the vineyard just like my father and his father,” says Greg recalling some tough days of hoeing and pruning. “My dad was proud of the work he did but at the same time wanted my brother Marcus and I, to try something different. I think he wanted us to study law or medicine,” he continues. “I remember we had basically three choices while growing up—play sports, work on the ranch, or get a job. I chose sports,” Greg quips.

In the early 1970s, not unlike most kids fresh out of high school, Greg went off to college with no clear sense where his life was heading. It finally dawned on him that it made perfect sense to continue his family heritage of grape growing and winemaking. He quickly transferred to wine super-school, U.C Davis to learn the textbook side of the business. After all, he had already grown up with a lifetime of practical experience.
After a year at Davis, Greg was ready. He and a school buddy boldly started a winery of their own which they named Milano Winery. Conveniently, “Mil” and “ano” was a shortened combination of their last names plus it had an Italian flair to it. A half-dozen successful years later, Greg was ready to move on to other challenges. In 1982, his partner’s dad bought out Greg’s portion of the business.

During the 1980s, Greg continued making his mark and building his reputation within the wine industry. As a consulting winemaker, he helped establish several wineries, including, Baccala, Tyland and Olson. It was during this stretch of time that Greg decided to visit his grandfather’s Italian homeland. While discovering his roots, he made a startling revelation that he too, should be making Italian wines and furthering his family’s legacy. However, the idea met with great skepticism upon his return to California. “Everyone thought I was crazy,” he remembers. “First of all, virtually no one is growing Italian varietals in California and secondly, who’s going to buy them?” they all said. So, logically he put the thought aside for the time being and continued on with his career.
Years later, Greg was driving by a vineyard near Ukiah in Mendocino County, where he spotted a small patch of the Italian varietal, Nebbiolo. It was growing on a tiny outside portion of a 40-acre vineyard called Fox Mountain, owned by local grower Lowell Stone. Sensing an opportunity to finally pursue his Italian wine concept, Greg convinced Lowell to let him use an old abandoned hop kiln on the property as a makeshift winery. It was perfect. There he could start a new winery and be right at the source of the grapes he needed.

As it turned out, the Nebbiolo grapes needed a few years of care and attention before they up to the standard of quality Greg wanted. As he was bringing the Nebbiolo vines up to speed, Greg pursued another direction using the old hop kiln facility to make Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with fruit that was also growing on the Fox Mountain property. He labeled the wines under the name Domaine Saint Gregory—a Burgundian sounding name with the strategy of keeping the production focus on Burgundian-style wines.

As Domaine Saint Gregory was getting off the ground, Greg also searched for additional sources of Italian grapes to supplement what was on the Fox Mountain property. By 1991, the timing was finally right to launch his line of Italian style wines. The first vintage produced a thousand cases of two varietals, Nebbiolo and Muscato which he labeled “Monte Volpe,”—Italian for Fox Mountain.

“It was tough starting out back then,” Greg admits. “We knocked on a lot of doors until things finally started to gel,” he adds. Whether Greg was a catalyst or if it was simply fortuitous timing in the marketplace, Cal-Ital wines have mushroomed in popularity during this decade.

Recently, Greg opened his first tasting room in the quaint wine town of Hopland where he showcases all of his labels. His entire production operation is located at the picturesque and historic Fetzer Estate in Redwood Valley.



Greg Graziano

‘It always seemed like a lot of work,” Greg Graziano remembers as he was growing up and working long hours on the family vineyard in Mendocino County. ‘My dad’s passion was grape farming, but he discouraged my brother and I from becoming farmers because he knew how tough it could be at times,” Greg recalls. So, by the time Greg went to college, the titles of Grape Grower and Winemaker were far down on the list of career choices.

At college though, something happened. ‘There I was at school, not really into it and with no real direction,” he remembers vividly. ‘The only thing that made sense to me was growing grapes and making wine. That’s what I had been doing most of my life. That’s what I was most comfortable doing. So having a winery was the logical, sensible thing.” Greg transferred immediately to the University of California at Davis where all the wine gurus get their start. He already knew the basics, having grown up with on-the-job-training. At Davis, he simply wanted to get an academic point of view. After a year at Davis, at the age of 21, he and a friend opened up a winery called Milano.

In 1982, Greg sold his part of the winery and moved on. He had gained enough industry knowledge by then to offer his expertise to other wineries that were trying to get off the ground. So for several years he consulted, made wine for other wineries, helped in the vineyards, and built a solid reputation within the industry. Three years later, Greg took the position of Assistant Winemaker at La Crema Winery when a friend who was the winemaker convinced him to come on board. The following year his friend left and Greg took over as winemaker. He was there for five years until the winery was sold to industry giant Kendall-Jackson. During that time Greg guided La Crema’s production from 10,000 to 100,000 cases. As winemakers are often allowed to do, Greg started his own label of wines called Domaine Saint Gregory, in 1988 while he was still La Crema’s winemaker. When La Crema was sold, his own brand was not yet mature enough to stand on its own, so he accepted the position of winemaker for Hidden Cellars, one of the operations he helped establish years earlier.

In the early 1990s Greg also took on winemaking duties for two other wineries, Martin Ray and Yorkville. Then in 1991 he and his wife Trudi, started Monte Volpe Winery, specializing exclusively in Italian varietals. And a several years ago, he accepted the challenge of producing one of the country’s first biodynamic (certified organic) line of wines for a new winery called Fox Brook. He then added a third brand of his own, called Fattoria Enotria, also devoted to Italian wines. You may have surmised by now that Greg likes to keep busy. ‘Basically, my strategy has been to make wine for other wineries to help finance and grow my own brands,” he says. Today Greg’s operation is solid enough to stand on its own. But he still has a hard time saying ‘no” to people seeking his help and advice. ‘I’m the kind of person who likes to have a lot of challenges,” admits Greg. ‘I enjoy helping wineries get started and sharing what I know, but every situation also adds to my knowledge and understanding, so it tends to work both ways,” he says philosophically.


Chicken Tocai


Ingredients

Winemaker Greg Graziano came up with this recipe one evening by using what was available in the house. This dish has the satisfying, melded flavor of a long-simmered stew. Part of the explanation is that the garlic cloves are cooked whole and then mashed into the sauce. You’ll always get a mellower flavor from whole cloves than from chopped or crushed garlic.

Olive Oil
Kosher salt
Fresh ground pepper
1 can artichoke hearts quartered, rinsed
1/2 onion, chopped
3/4 pound mushrooms, halved
1/3 cup pitted green olives, halved
10 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
8 - 10 chicken thighs
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme,
or 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 bottle of Graziano Tocai Friulano
1/2 cup chicken broth.


Instructions

In a large, deep frying pan, heat the oil over moderately high heat. Add the artichokes, onion, mushrooms, olives and garlic and sauté, season with salt and pepper, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 - 8 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Lightly coat the chicken with flour. Add olive oil to same pan, then brown the chicken thighs well on both sides, about 8 minutes in all. Remove. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Add the wine and thyme. Bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan to dislodge any brown bits. Reduce the wine by one quarter. Add the chicken stock when wine is reduced. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add
chicken back to pan. Cover. Turn chicken every 15 minutes for 1 hour. In last 15 minutes of simmering, return the vegetables, except the garlic, to the pan. Push the chicken and vegetables to the side of the pan and add the garlic cloves and mash them with a fork. Grind in some fresh pepper and finish simmering. Serve with rice. Serves 4.




Zinfandel Braised Short Ribs with Garlic Mashed Potatoes


Ingredients

This is a combination of elements taken from various short rib dishes that we have enjoyed at restaurants that we have visited in our marketing travels. Preparation for this dish needs to start 24 to 36 hours in advance.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 pounds individual short ribs
3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black
1 large onion, finely chopped
pepper, plus more to taste
1/2 cup chopped leeks (white part only)
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
12 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups Zinfandel
1 bay leaf
8 ounces baby-cut carrots
1 3/4 cups beef stock
One 14 1/2-ounce can diced, drained
1/2 cup Mediterranean black olives, such as Niçoise, pitted
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for garnish
1 tablespoon herbes de Provence

Mashed Potatoes:
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup milk 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 cloves roasted garlic Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300°F. Heat the oil in a large (at least 6-quart) Dutch oven or flameproof casserole over medium-high heat. Season the short ribs with the salt and pepper. In batches, without crowding, add the short ribs to the pot and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes.Using tongs, transfer the ribs to a platter. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pot. Add the onion, leeks, chopped carrot, and celery to the pot and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, herbes de Provence, and flour and stir until the garlic gives off its aroma, about 1 minute. Stir in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the broth, tomatoes, and bay leaf. Return the short ribs and any juices, to the pot. Add cold water as needed to barely reach the top of the ribs and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover tightly, transfer to the oven, and bake, stirring occasionally to change the position of the ribs, until the meat is falling-off-the-bone tender, about 2 1/2 hours.During the last 15 minutes, add the baby carrots.Note: if you have the time, cooking them at 200° for 10 to 12 hours will result in meat that is so tender it will melt in your mouth. Transfer the short ribs to a deep serving platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Skim off the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid, and discard the bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the liquid is reduced to a sauce consistency, about 10 minutes (the exact time depends on the size of the pot). Add the olives and cook to heat them through, about 3 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, prepare the potatoes: Place the potatoes in a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender. Drain the water, add the milk and butter to the pot, and bring to a full boil over high heat. Remove from the heat. Squeeze the roasted garlic from the skin and add to the potatoes.Whip the potatoes with an electric mixer or hand masher until smooth, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon some of the potatoes slightly off center on each plate. Lean the ribs against one edge of the potatoes, and spoon the sauce over the ribs and potatoes and around the plates. Serves 6.



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